Anantara Kalutara review: Tropical luxury with a side of Sri Lankan history

With its towering gable roof and open air design, architecture enthusiasts walking into the lobby of Anantara Kalutara in Sri Lanka will immediately recognise the work of the country's most famous architect, Geoffrey Bawa.

Bawa, who died in 2003, was one of the most famous Asian architects of his generation and helped to define Sri Lanka's modern landscape. Known as the father of Tropical Modernism, his projects span the length and breadth of the country, including the famed Sri Lankan Parliament Building.

Anantara Kalutara, on Sri Lanka's west coast, occupies a special place in Bawa's hallowed body of work. It was his final project, although he unfortunately did not live to see its completion in 2016. But Bawa's spirit is everywhere in this unique property, located on a stretch of land that's sandwiched between the Indian Ocean on one side and the Kalu Ganga river on the other.

Spread across 6.5 hectares, every room, suite and villa has been designed to take advantage of its beautiful secluded location – the hallmark of a celebrated architect known for blending his beautiful structures to the natural environment they are set in.

The National checked in to to see if its worth splurging on this luxurious tropical getaway with a rich architectural history.

The welcome

After a rain-soaked 90-minute drive from Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo, we are welcomed at the hotel reception and handed colourful garlands. A stunning ceremonial welcome begins, as six dancers dressed in full traditional gear and accompanied by a drummer guide us towards the main lobby.

I ignorantly assume the dance performance was a one-of, arranged for us as guests of the resort. But no, I soon found out it is repeated with every new guest arrival. Not only that, a similar ritual is performed before you leave, where staff tie sacred threads to each guest's wrist while a prayer for a safe onward journey is performed.

The neighbourhood

Once a thriving city for spice trading, remnants of Kalutara's colonial past can be seen everywhere, with structures of Portuguese, Dutch and British influences dotting the city.

While Anantara Kalutara is located to take full advantage of its gorgeous lagoon setting, the city's main market is a mere 15-minute drive away and the place to shop for local art and crafts plus varieties of Sri Lankan tea, including the famed Ceylon.

For history buffs, the Kalutara Bodhiya, a giant Bodhi or sacred fig tree that is believed to be connected to the tree under which Buddha attained enlightenment, is also located about 15 minutes away. Built around it is the striking Kalutara Chaitya, a stupa or place for meditation, and its massive dome is visible from many parts of the city, including from the hotel. Inside, visitors can take time out to reflect or learn about Buddha's life through 74 murals painted in chronological order across the dome's inner walls.

Buzzing with worshippers on the day we visit, the Kalutara Bodhiya, the Kalutara Chaitya and the Kalutara Viharaya, an adjacent temple, are stark reminders that predominantly Buddhist Sri Lanka is a deeply spiritual country.

Those interested in architecture will not want to miss a trip to Lunuganga Estate, Bawa's country house, about an hour's drive from the hotel. A former rubber plantation, Bawa bought the 15-acre property before he became an architect, turning it into an experimental place where he honed his practice. Today, the estate stands as perfect introduction to his design philosophy, where man-made structures seamlessly blend with their natural surrounds, and where indoors and outdoors comfortably merge.

The room

There are 141 accommodation options at Anantara Kalutara, including rooms, suites and villas. I'm staying in a one-bedroom pool villa, a 235-square metre space that's good enough for three adults. Divided into three distinct sections, it includes a living area, a bedroom and an outdoor area where I have my own private swimming pool, a Jacuzzi tub and a sprawling sundeck.

Attached to the bedroom is a large walk-in wardrobe with plenty of storage space. From here, a door leads to an even larger bathroom, with a stand-alone bathtub and a wide countertop with double sinks, topped with a basket of toiletries. As a brand known as much for their spas as their resorts, Anantara does such products really well – and I am rather partial to their handmade soaps.

Walled off from the rest of the hotel, the villas don't offer views as such besides some lush greenery. But inside my own spacious little kingdom, there's plenty to indulge in.

The service

After the devastation wreaked by the Covid-19 pandemic on the hospitality industry followed by months of political turmoil, tourism-dependent Sri Lanka is slowly on the road to economic stability. The flawless service at Anantara Kalutara reflects this at every turn.

Everywhere I go, I'm greeted by attentive staff, whether popping out for a walk or trying to find my way to a restaurant. Due to its sheer size, and because it rained almost every day, I often need a buggy to take me around and as soon as I request it, a driver arrives almost immediately, no matter the time of day.

The scene

Thanks to its location, Anantara Kalutara is self-contained when it comes to activities for guests. From water sports to archery, rifle shooting and ziplining, there's a lot to do for all ages and groups. For those who like things a little slower paced, there's also a yoga and meditation pavilion. Two large outdoor pools, including one for adults only, allow for relaxing afternoons by the beach and lagoon.

Adventurous travellers will enjoy the Fishing Guru Experience where you set off on a traditional wooden boat, learn local angling techniques and then later hand over your catch for the resort's chefs to prepare to your liking.

The Anantara Spa is a must-visit for the ultimate relaxation. The spa also offers a Slumber Guru Experience in your room where a therapist delivers a sleep-inducing massage then prepares a luxurious bath leaving you to enjoy the ultimate restful soak.

The food

There are a number of dining options including Olu, the all-day dining restaurant where lavish buffets await at each meal. Spice Traders, my personal favourite, is where diners get their pick of the best Indian, Thai and Chinese cuisines, while Acquolina specialises in Italian food. There's also a sports bar and lounge located just above the reception where guests can play pool, watch live sporting matches or just relax and take in the tropical breeze and views.

For those looking for something even more special, there's a Dining by Design service where staff will set up an exclusive dining experience with a view, catered by a own private chef.

Highs and lows

Anantara Kalutara is hard to fault. With top-notch service, well thought-out facilities that take full advantage of its location and a setting that is hard to match anywhere, it's a getaway that's tailored to near perfection.

There is, however, a road that cuts through the middle of the resort, which leads to Avani Kalutara, a sister resort brand of Anantara. This means various forms of transportations, including tuk-tuks, are jetting across the resort heading to the other property. By no means a heavy traffic situation, but I often came across a few tuk-tuk drivers gathering near my villa, offering their driving services. An unnecessary albeit minor bother.

The insider tip

This one is for architecture geeks. Seek out the Geoffrey Bawa Library at the Anantara Kalutara. Modelled on Bawa's personal study, furnishings in the library were either designed or owned by him. The space, which also features many of his architectural sketches and plans, was put together in his style and is stocked with books about him as well as on his many distinguished works.

The verdict

Anantara Kalutara is the great escape you're looking for with everything you'd need for a blissful retreat all within its gates. Not to mention all that architectural wonder to soak in.

The bottom line

Nightly room rates start at approximately Dh760, including breakfast. Check-in time is from 3pm and checkout time is at noon.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future.