Festive guide to Monaco: Giant snow globes, antique carousels and Christmas markets

I always think there's something special about landing at Cote d'Azur Airport. Flying in over a blue ocean and exiting into a suntrap – the region gets about 300 days of sunshine a year – filled with palm trees and lush greenery makes me think that I could be in the tropics, rather than Europe. And it's no different when I touch down this winter.

Exiting the terminal, I pass a row of shiny sleek black limousines waiting to take travellers to their final destinations, including my own car manned by a chatty driver called Sebastian. Having flown direct from Dubai on a seven-hour flight, I land just before noon and I'm in my car ready to roll at exactly 12.30. Sebastian tells me the drive to Monaco, 30km to the east, will take around 40 minutes so I settle in to enjoy the scenery.

We pass the greenhouse-like Allianz Riviera stadium, home to Ligue 1's Nice football club, which glistens in the sun. I watch the landscapes change from driftwood strewn by the side of the water in the Mercantour National Park to rolling hills dotted with lush villas and backed by green mountains. The sky is bright blue and I’ll be honest, the weather isn’t quite what I had been expecting on my trip to Monaco to research the festive season. As we drive, I mentally run through my packing list wondering if I have actually brought anything I’ll be able to wear if this sunshine keeps up.

My ears pop as they acclimatise to the changing elevation while Sebastian makes light work of the twists, curves and tunnels on the two-lane motorway. After 15 minutes, we stop at a toll bridge and an automatic barrier rises to let us pass. Not long after this, I’m greeted by the sight of the Mediterranean Sea, glowing in the warm afternoon sun. From here, we hit a bit of traffic and, as I'm clearly in the festive mode, Chris Rea’s Driving Home for Christmas with its "top to toe in taillights" lyric runs through my head.

A red and white affair

It’s easy to tell when we arrive in Monaco thanks to a plethora of red and white flags draped from poles, hanging from houses and blowing in the wind. As we head down Boulevard Princesse Charlotte – named after the daughter of Prince Louis II of Monaco – Sebastian explains the patriotism. “It’s National Day in Monaco today, so everyone is off work and there will be a parade with the royal family,” he says. If nothing else, at least the red and white coloured flags are festive, I think.

A few moments later, we pull up to the Hotel de Paris, right on Monte-Carlo's famed Casino Square. It is decked out in National Day colours and a few supercars are parked right outside it. A smartly dressed doorman ushers me through and I step inside the lobby of this historical hotel which dates back to 1864.

Conceived as a project to entice visitors from around the world to visit Monte-Carlo, the hotel was created with the vision of being better than any that had gone before it. With 207 rooms and suites, many of which offer views of Casino Square and the sparkling Mediterranean Sea, it seems to be fitting the bill as it was awarded three keys in Michelin Guide's hotels ranking this year. At Christmas, the hotel lobby is transformed into a sparkling festive scene with a central gold and white-laced tree designed by Chopard.

The next morning, I wake up and it's still dark outside. Confused, I look at the time – it’s after 7.30am. I check the app on my phone and discover that sunrise in winter in Monte-Carlo isn't until 8am and that it sets again around 5pm. Realising I have limited time to go and explore, I shake myself out of my king-size bed to go explore.

Right outside the hotel is the Monte-Carlo Societe des Bains de Mer shopping promenade, which also owns Hotel de Paris. Here, designer storefronts have been dressed in their winter best and I wander by Gucci’s white winter cityscape display towards Hermes’ colourful sleigh design then stop to take in Miu Miu’s oversized advent candle. On the opposite side of the street is the principality's Christmas market with traditional wooden huts decked out in fairy lights. The scent of gluhwein fills the air as people grab a mug at tiny tables set along the pavement. Small, but perfectly formed, it's a good place to find unique Christmas gifts and souvenirs – with stores selling everything from hand-crocheted dolls to wooden painted nutcrackers.

I continue down the hill, towards Port Hercule. Every winter, this space is transformed into the principality's Christmas village where a giant Ferris wheel sits in front of a backdrop of superyachts bobbing on a blue ocean and visitors can go ice skating at the foot of palm trees. Festive decorations, wooden chalets stocked with regional handicrafts and food stalls serving culinary specialities like mariote e gali, a small cake made from leftover dough, at the bustling port side.

Continuing along the waterfront leads towards the old town. Here, La Condamine Market is where Monegasque locals shop daily for fruit, vegetables, flowers and more. At this time of year, there are some lovely festive finds to be had from vivid red flowering plants to local soft cheeses. A plethora of cafes surround the square, and it's an atmospheric place to stop and enjoy a spot of people-watching and perhaps a steaming hot chocolate.

Venturing further into the old town, I reach the Prince's Palace of Monaco. Climbing the stone steps leading to the official residence of Albert II, I discover tiny nativity scenes displayed in each of the arrow holes in the Genoese fortress entrance. Depicting scenes from various places, there's one made solely from wood that comes from Brittany, one from Germany and another from rural France.

At the top of the hill, the views are impressive, spanning the harbour and, on a clear day, going all the way to Italy. After a few moments drinking it in, I'm distracted from the view by the scent of chocolate wafting towards me and realise that I'm right beside Chocolatier de Monaco, a confectioner that's been serving Monegasque-themed chocolates since 1920. Elaborate red, green and gold decorations adorn the shop's windows beyond which golden vats churn liquid chocolate. Serving treats fit for a prince – the shop has had the royal seal since 1999 – try their signature truffles, you won't be disappointed.

From here, I cross the street to the Oceanographic Museum, one of the most visited marine science museums in Europe. Built on a cliffside 85 metres above the sea, it is housed in a palace thanks to Prince Albert I, who requested a palace that was dedicated to art and science. Home to more than 350 fish species, the museum boosts my festive mood by giving me the opportunity to explore the "North Pole" as part of its Polar Mission exhibition. From here, a stop at the adjacent Jardins Saint-Martin, a steep and statue-studded garden made up of paths on the south-west face of the Rock of Monaco, is a peaceful little haven worth popping into.

On the other side of the park is the Cathedral of Our Lady Immaculate, formerly known as the Saint Nicholas Cathedral and Monaco's most important religious building. Closely linked to the royal family, it houses the tombs of Monaco’s former princes and princesses. It's also a great place to spend Christmas Eve, as it's where one of the region's oldest festive traditions unfolds as the archbishop of Monaco consecrates the sweet round Pan de Natale during midnight mass.

Back towards Hotel de Paris, the Boulingrins Gardens is a must-visit for festive feels thanks to its antique-style carousel and street-side stalls selling churros, crepes and seasonal treats, including panettone from the nearby Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant at Hotel de Paris. This is also the place to watch visitors to the illuminated Casino Square, which lights up in magnificent colour every year. It's also where little ones can meet Father Christmas, as the man in red pays a visit every year, arriving not in a sleigh but in a chauffeur-driven classic car.

As I head back to central Monte-Carlo, with National Day celebrations over, Casino Square is now being set up for Christmas. Every year, it comes alive with lights, decorations, live music and more. Its giant snow globes are the main attraction, depicting a different theme every year. This year, it's all about the magic of Christmas and each of the five globes portrays a classic festive moment, from a family decorating a tree to children unwrapping gifts. The principality’s towering 18-metre Christmas tree is also here, a gem that draws a 6,000-strong Monaguesqe crowd when its lights are turned on.

Settling into Bar American in Hotel de Paris, the live band who perform nightly are clearly embracing the season, the singer sporting a crushed red velvet evening dress and a blend of French, Italian and English seasonal songs in the repertoire. While Monaco might not be the first place that springs to mind when you think of a festive escape, for a seasonal getaway that combines Christmas magic, easy elegance and a mild Mediterranean climate, it might just be one of Europe's best-kept seasonal secrets.