One of my earliest memories of Old Delhi is being bundled up in a cycle rickshaw as it snaked its way through narrow roads teeming with crowds and cars. I clasped my father’s hand tight as we walked along the bylanes of its bazaars. I stared in awe at the colourful wares in shops, sellers screaming out deals, streetside food hawkers dishing up delicacies and people haggling with shopkeepers, as my parents picked up the items on their list. These trips often ended with a hearty and meaty meal at Karim’s, which was always my favourite part of the day.
In college, when I developed a liking for silver jewellery, I would head to Old Delhi with my friends to shop at the wholesale silver market. And before my wedding, my family made several trips to scour the famed stores that hide within its many lanes for embroidered Indian outfits.
On the back of countless trips I've made over the decades to Chandni Chowk, its almost 400-year-old market, here is my guide for those who want to shop or just enjoy the culinary experiences this little part of Delhi has to offer.
Where to shop
Translating to Moonlight Square, Chandni Chowk in the heart of Old Delhi is one of the oldest and busiest markets in the country. Let me preface its virtues by saying the area can be a bit of a sensory overload – from the sounds of constant honking and persistent salespeople, to overwhelming crowds and even some wildlife (monkeys and stray dogs walk freely around here), plus extremely narrow lanes and the aforementioned cycle rickshaws that zip past often missing you just by a hair.
But if you are willing to brave all this, there is a treasure trove of finds to be had here, at prices no other market in the Indian capital can rival. Spread across more than 5km, Chandni Chowk is divided into several markets, the most prominent of which are Dariba Kalan (for silver jewellery), Kinari Bazar (for traditional Indian wear and gifts), Khari Baoli (Asia’s largest wholesale spice market), Nai Sarak (for paper and stationery) and Chawri Bazar (for brass, copper and a variety of miscellaneous items).
Dariba Kalan
Start your sojourn here. The wholesale silver jewellery market offers bangles, necklaces, earrings, rings and anklets in a variety of styles, whether you are after a statement piece or simply looking for something dainty to add to your stack. Some of the standout pieces feature exquisite, even colourful stonework, and most stores can even customise pieces if you have a particular design in mind.
While there are plenty of shops to pick from, my favourites are Plata Arts – for everyday pieces that are understated yet unique, and Jain Silver Arts, for Indian-style jewellery. Both offer a large variety and are also quick with customising pieces at reasonable rates.
While in Dariba Kalan, make a pit stop at Gulab Singh Johri Mal – one of the oldest ittar or perfume oil shops in Delhi. “The lines have blurred between ittar and perfume now, but traditionally only ittar was made with the essence of flowers,” says Atul, whose great-great-grandfather, Gulab Singh Johri Mal, opened the store in 1816.
“We do not transport the flowers as it spoils them; we extract the ittar from where the flowers are grown.” The brand has several factories across India, including a rose factory in Uttar Pradesh, one for jasmine in Tamil Nadu and one for kewra in Orissa.
The store is also known for its incense sticks, available in a variety of fragrances, as well as its vials of remedial rose water, which is made especially to soothe the eyes. “Now there are many new products, but we are keeping the traditional methods alive,” Atul adds.
Indeed, this part of Delhi is big on upholding tradition. Another shop doing just that is the 140-year-old Narendra Pharmacy. Ashwagandha, shilajit and moringa are current buzzwords in the healthcare industry, but these ancient herbs have been a part of Indian medicine for centuries.
The pharmacy offers shelves of these medicinal herbs, either whole or in powdered form, and for prices as low as 80 rupees ($0.94) for a 50g packet of moringa. A complimentary consultation is part of the experience here, and you will be guided as to how and when to consume the herbs for maximum benefit. Located in a tiny bylane right at the end of Dariba Kalan, the store can also concoct a blend of herbs depending on your needs.
Kinari Bazar
Once you've reached the end of Dariba Kalan, make your way to Kinari Bazar, if traditional Indian wear is what you are after. While many of the stores cater to brides-to-be, notably Om Prakash Jawahar Lal, where outfits can take up to six months to make, there are others where you can buy ready-made saris, suits and lehengas.
For a variety of saris from across the country, including Banarasis, Kanjeevarams and more modern designs, Arun Vastra Bhandar is a great one-stop shop. The tailors can even emulate designs by Sabyasachi or Manish Malhotra, for a fraction of the cost – just ask and you shall receive.
Another favourite is Asiana Couture that, along with ethnic wear, offers Indo-western styles. Think ornate jackets that can be paired with a pair of jeans or long skirt for an evening out.
Shopping for Indian occassionwear is a mixed bag of experiences in Chandni Chowk. Many shopkeepers, in a bid to get customers to see more pieces and hence shop more, will often treat their guests to local delicacies, so you can expect to have chaat and shikanji (spiced lemonade) with a side of sari shopping.
Kinari Bazar is also a great spot if you like to design or get clothes tailored with a personal touch. Here, you will find intricately embroidered, sequinned and embellished borders, as well as other accessories that can help make an outfit really stand out. There is also a range of beautiful gift bags on offer (starting at 50 rupees), as well as unique home decor pieces.
When walking from Kinari Bazar to Khari Baoli, make a stop at Mittal Emporium for Lucknowi chikankari – a type of embroidery that the city of Lucknow is known for. Stitched on to light fabrics such as cotton, mul cotton and georgette, the light and airy garments are ideal for the UAE summer. Take your pick from short tops, kurtas and anarkalis in a variety of colours and designs, with prices starting at about 900 rupees ($10).
Khari Baoli
Khari Baoli is a 10-minute walk from Mittal Emporium, although you’re likely to smell the spices well before you see them. The streets here are lined with rows and rows of sacks brimming with every spice and nut you can imagine, from whole varieties to powdered and peeled.
Once you've taken in the aromas of the different spices and identified the ones you want to buy, head to 15 Chawalwala, which opened its doors back in 1938. The produce here, from spices and Iranian almonds to a variety of rice, flour, saffron and pickles, is known to be of high quality and hygienically packed.
Where to eat
All that retail therapy is bound to leave you feeling peckish. Fortunately, Chandni Chowk is known as much for its culinary offerings as its shopping. Here are some of my favourite tried-and-tested spots.
Karim’s
Located in a tiny bylane opposite the landmark Jama Masjid is Gali Kababian (the lane of kebabs) and Karim's. The restaurant was founded in 1913 by a chef from the royal kitchen of Bahadur Shah Zafar, the last Mughal emperor. The dishes on offer have been hotly debated in recent times, with some saying the food isn’t quite what it used to be, but I disagree.
Karim’s offers a fairly large menu, but the trick is knowing what to order. The mutton barra, chicken kebab, chicken Jahangiri and chicken qorma have not disappointed over the years. The barra (545 rupees for four pieces), are spiced-marinated ribs, chargrilled yet tender, mild yet flavourful, with the meat falling off the bone. The juicy kebabs (260 rupees) are best enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon, dipped in spicy green chutney and topped with sliced raw onions.
While the Jahangiri is a spicy curry, the qorma is mild but incredibly flavourful, and comes topped with julienned ginger. Scoop up these curries (395 rupees for a half plate for both) with buttery sheermal (120 rupees) or khameeri tandoori roti (40 rupees) for a slightly lighter option. If you still have room for dessert after, the small portion of rice pudding or kheer benazeer (120 rupees) is a good way to round off the meal. The restaurant offers basic seating, and diners often need to share tables during peak hours.
Chaina Ram’s
This popular sweet shop opened its doors in 1901. While there is no dearth of sweetmeats in the city, or even within Chandni Chowk – Chaina Ram’s offers sweets from the Sindhi community – people who moved to India from Pakistan during the 1947 partition.
Sample the singhar ji barfi – a mildly sweet treat made with chickpea flour – and the pinnis, laden with ghee and dry fruit, and ideal to eat during the unforgiving Delhi winter to warm the body.
Around the spring festival of Holi, the shop offers gheeyar – a Sindhi version of the jalebi, which is larger, thinner and more crispy, and topped generously with dry fruits. Both singhar ji barfi and pinni cost 800 rupees for a kilogram, while gheeyar goes for 900 rupees. Chaina Ram’s coconut barfi and patisa are worth trying too.
Old Famous Jalebi Wala
This shop, which was set up in 1884, still attracts hordes of foodies waiting to bite into its hot, thick and syrupy sweet jalebis, which can be topped with rabri (thickened milk flavoured with cardamom and nuts). Located at the entrance of Dariba Kalan, it is known for queues that extend right up to the main road.
While jalebis are available all over the city, this version stands out for its super-crispy exterior and chewy interior. While at the till, also order small Punjabi samosas, which are served with spicy coriander chutney. A portion of jalebis costs 60 rupees (70 rupees with rabri), while the samosas will only set you back 25 rupees.
Carts selling daulat ki chaat
This speciality sweet is only available in the winter and sold from small carts in the lanes of Dariba Kalan. Here, 50 rupees gets you a little bowl of the creamy and mildly sweet dessert that is made using milk, sugar, saffron and cream that is said to set with the help of the cold winter dew.
Tiwari Ji Chole Bhature Wale
This hole-in-the wall spot, located at the entrance of the famed Parathe Wali Gali, has been selling the popular Punjabi delicacy of chole bhature for more than 100 years. And 100 rupees will get you a portion of spiced chickpeas (refills available on request) and two puffed-up deep-fried bhaturas filled with bits of paneer, plus sliced onions and seasonal pickles – chilli and carrot in the winter and mango and chilli in the summer.
There is place for only about 10 people to stand and eat at a time, but one taste of the melt-in-the-mouth chickpeas scooped up with the pillowy bread will explain why people jostle for space to eat the dish fresh here. You can also buy the spice mix for the chole to make a close enough version at home.
Aslam Butter Chicken
Not one for the faint-hearted, Aslam's focuses on the butter aspect of butter chicken and has put its own spin on the popular Indian dish, which is known for its semi-sweet tomato creamy gravy.
Chunks of charcoal-grilled chicken are tossed in a sauce made with slabs of butter and dollops of cream to make a dish that is still mild, but very rich. A half portion costs 350 rupees.
Ghantewala
First opened in 1790, this shop offers a variety of classic Indian sweets such as laddoos, barfis and pedas – all made with pure desi ghee – as well as an array of chaats such as golgappas and papdi chaat.
Popular with celebrities and politicians, including Jawaharlal Nehru, the first prime minister of India, Ghantewala has evolved with the times, and offers gluten-free options, such as ragi laddoo, and treats with considerably less sugar.
Getting there
Chandni Chowk is on the Yellow Line of the Delhi Metro. Once out of the station, you can either walk to the respective markets or hire a cycle rickshaw (prices range from 50 to 100 rupees per ride). There is also the option to take a taxi from anywhere in the city to the entrance of the main market, located across the road from Red Fort, and then either walk or take a cycle or e-rickshaw to your destination.
Know before you go
Carry a bag that you can completely zip up and keep it close to your person at all times to avoid falling prey to pickpockets. Since Chandni Chowk is extremely crowded, ensure you don’t carry or wear any valuables, and keep any cash in a deep pocket.
Carry sanitising wipes. The restaurants here are fairly basic, and not many of them offer a spot to wash your hands before or after a meal. It is also recommended to carry your own filtered drinking water.
Since this is an older part of Delhi, dress in modest clothes and pair these with comfortable walking shoes.
And finally, bargain, bargain, bargain. Barring the eateries, most shops will make room for a discount – just don’t go too low or you'll be left empty-handed.
