If bags of charm, walkability and sun-dappled alleyways to get lost Alice in Wonderland-style are high on your list of holiday must-haves, I have good news for you. I found all that and more on my first visit to Mallorca, arriving after school vacations were over to find the city still very much in holiday mode.
Travelling without my husband and children for a 50th birthday meet-up, four old university friends had flown in from Australia, the UK and Dubai. One more, who has lived in Mallorca for a decade, played host and tour guide, giving us access to some locals-only knowledge.
From architecture to artisan shops, here's what to expect in the beach city.
Scene setting in the Old Town
Capital city Palma is frequently described as “mini Barcelona”, a description which, without taking anything away from either city, feels apt. Sunlight glides across shuttered windows, street lamps dot tree-lined streets, and you won’t walk for more than a few minutes before chancing upon a beautifully kept public garden, cooling water fountain or small square with a cafe, where you can sit, people-watch and sip on a cortado.
By exploring on foot, and remembering to look upwards as you do, a walk through the city peels back the layers of the Moorish, Gothic and Renaissance architecture left behind by the visitors and conquerors who have shaped the island’s history.
In comparison, my home for the trip – I stayed at the Melia Palma Bay – is distinctly modern, having opened in 2017. It's across the road from the beach, and is also perfectly placed just outside the town centre, with the cathedral a 20-minute walk and the Old Town a further 10 minutes on. One day, with nowhere particular to be, we wander into the Old Town, or Casco Antiguo as it's referred to locally.
Along the Playa de Can Pere Antoni boardwalk, Mallorcans jog or power walk past us. Fitness in the sun is big here. In the distance, cruise ships disgorge their passengers under the watchful gaze of the 13th-century Cathedral of Santa Maria of Palma; the imposing Gothic structure is no stranger to seeing boats come and go through the Bay of Palma over the centuries.
Unlike its famous cousins, Tenerife and Fuerteventura across the Atlantic in the Canary Islands, Mallorca is surprisingly low-rise. In the Old Town, apartment blocks are painted in a variety of pinks and terracotta, or with their original sandstone facades. Shutters are deep blue or verdant green, reflecting the abundant nature of the island.
The city’s narrow streets and winding alleyways feel maze-like, with each crossroad begging the question “which way next?”. In classic Spanish hacienda style, the narrow streets open up on either side to beautiful courtyards. Mostly gateways to hotels, shops or galleries (owning a private home here would denote serious wealth), ornate outdoor staircases snake upwards, while the cosy patios are enlivened by tiled walls, murals, outside seating and water features.
Finding treasures to fill a suitcase
Shopping is a big part of Palma life. Here in the Old Town, you’ll find all the big Spanish fashion brands, including high street stores Zara, Massimo Dutti and Mango, as well as the likes of American Vintage. Luxury brands dot Passeig del Born and Avenida Jaime III, the latter home to the must-visit Rialto Living, where you can shop for beautiful homeware before enjoying a hot chocolate in their inner courtyard.
Another evening was spent in Santanyi, a 45-minute drive from Palma. We were lucky enough to have our friend act as chauffeur, but I would recommend hiring a car for the duration of your stay to make exploring the region easier and cheaper than taking taxis. Santanyi has managed the balancing act of embracing the lure of the luxurious end of tourism while retaining its authenticity. The buildings seem to have a rose gold glow at sunset, and it’s the place for buying the kind of pieces that when people ask where you got them, you say: “Oh, just some little place in Mallorca”.
We stopped by Flor de Sal d’es Trenc, which, as its name suggests, was largely dedicated to selling a wide variety of the hand-harvested salts the region is famous for, with added curated seasonings. I spent about €200 ($234) on salts, ceramic bowls, drinks (with a comprehensive try-before-you-buy set up) and jewellery. I could have spent more, but the thought of excess luggage fees on the flight home prevent me.
From there, we visited La Magnona on Carrer Portell. Owned and run by fashion maximalist Maria Ferrer Ramis, it’s an absolute treasure trove of clothes, shoes and jewellery, with an ambience that felt like I was let loose in a theatrical dress-up box for an hour or so. I left the store another €200 down and deliriously happy about it.
Spanish tapas and family-style feasts
While in Old Town, we stop for tapas at El Camino on Carrer de Can Brondo. Sitting on stools at the long, buzzy bar, we soak up the atmosphere as our bread drinks in olive oil. The courgette flower with goat’s cheese was a standout, along with salt cod fritters, padron peppers, burrata, fig and jamon salad and lamb cutlets.
Heading out of the city, about a 40-minute drive away, we spent an evening at Farm To Table Mallorca at Los Dos Caballeros in Inca for a communal dining experience. Founded in 2020 by Michelin-trained chef Andy Ciempiel and his wife, Gosia, the focus is on fresh, seasonal produce sourced from local farmers. The €110, five-course tasting menu evolves with the seasons, and we dined on sourdough and local cheeses, gazpacho, braised fennel with soy dressing, mustard greens with ginger dressing and dates, crispy rice salad and slow-roasted leg of lamb wrapped in bay leaves, with vegetarian options available.
Food is served family style, allowing solo visitors and groups alike to make new friends as plates are passed around and dishes discussed. Dinner is from 5pm to 9pm, including a welcome drink, and dining beneath a sprawling tree in a field surrounded by vineyards, watching the sun set was a holiday highlight.
Searching for sandy shores
Being an island, beaches on Mallorca are numerous, with more than 300 to choose from. The most popular ones are Cala Major, Playa de Palma and Ciudad Jardin. I asked my friend, who lives in Mallorca, for some off-the-beaten-track beaches, but she hesitated.
Mallorca, like many beautiful places, has become a haven for tourists and influencers who flock to the Balearics in their hundreds of thousands, and many beaches and coves that used to be considered secluded or hidden gems have become overwhelmed with visitors.
We visited Cala Llombards, about a 50-minute drive from Palma, on a Thursday afternoon to be met with hundreds of visitors, taking her by surprise, as the last time she had been there, she’d been one of just a dozen or so on the beach. So, with no wish to gatekeep, it’s probably best to do your own research on the best beach for your vibe, as there are plenty to suit everyone. Palma is, after all, warm and welcoming to all – especially if you're willing to put the busyness of everyday life aside for a few days, and just stroll with it, eyes on the colourful rooftops and summer skies.
