Sarah Elanany, a London-based designer, has created a range of contemporary clothing that sticks to Islamic rules.
Sarah Elanany, a London-based designer, has created a range of contemporary clothing that sticks to Islamic rules.

Modesty blazes a fashion trail



LONDON // Meeting Sarah Elenany is a striking experience. Not just because she is petite, friendly and brimming with life - although she is. Not because she dresses according to the Islamic rules - in Britain these days that it is unexceptional. What makes her stand out is the way she takes the dress code and turns it into something young, edgy and cool. Of course, the rules are obeyed: she is covered, apart from her hands and face, and nothing is fitted or revealing. But at the same time, she looks more modern than any girl in tight jeans and a cropped T-shirt.

That's because Elenany is a designer spearheading a bold new fashion: mixing the Islamic dress code with smart, urban streetwear. "I know it's a big statement, but my brand is the first of its kind. There isn't anything else like it out there at the moment," she says. Her recently launched line includes hoodie dresses with dramatic graphics based on Islam, chic baggy trousers and a stylish raincoat that comes with built-in protection for the traditional headscarf.

Although it is Islamic fashion, the aim is to create an edgy, young style for any woman. "In the back of my mind I always wanted to make it appeal to a non-Muslim market as well, for the sake of making it available to more people and also in terms of making it normal fashion." The idea is that Muslims will spot the cultural references, while non-Muslims will see fashions they want to wear. "My sales have proved that non-Muslims are buying the designs," she says. "So, it's a niche product but with a mainstream element."

At 25, she's no newcomer to clothes-making. "I started making my own from about the age of 16 because there was nothing I liked that covered me up properly and had street cred." She became increasingly frustrated with trying to be fashionable and stick to the Islamic code. "There have been so many times when I have gone out to buy something and I haven't been able to, because there was nothing that ticked all the boxes. I'd find a dress and think 'Oh, great!' and then put it on and discover it came in under the bust too tightly or the sleeves were only three-quarter length, which means I'd have to wear something underneath it."

She saw other young Muslim women having the same problem. So, after completing a bachelor's degree in engineering product design and embarking on a master's in enterprise, both at South London University, she decided the answer was to launch her own brand of street-cred Islamic clothes. Called Elenany (pronounced Ellen-arny), the company has a tiny office in the unfashionable Elephant and Castle area of London. It launched earlier this summer with nine items, all self-designed. However, Elenany says she is not a fashion designer but a product designer - creating items aimed at a gap in the market.

Before making the clothes she carefully researched her target audience. "We asked them what their style was - feminine, conservative, street or whatever. We asked what kind of things they actually wear. And what they would like to wear. "Half said they wore streetwear and half said they wore 'pretty' clothing. I knew I was happier designing streetwear, so I went with that. I also found out what colours they liked: 80 per cent said dark colours with a bit of brightness. Which was great because black and white is my favourite colour combination, so I used that."

At the heart of her brand are the graphics that appear on her logo, dresses and jacket linings. "I tried to think of the things that are relevant to me as a Muslim. So there is one design which is like this [she holds her hands out, palms facing upwards]. It's dua, and every Muslim knows that. I didn't want to use traditional Islamic art, which is really beautiful but doesn't speak to me. I wanted to use graphics to capture the spirit of being a young Muslim. And I wanted people to look at the clothes and get it. And Muslims do - they say 'Oh look, that's dua'."

Another design (and her logo) uses a hand with one finger raised, the sign of shahada, the Muslim declaration of the oneness of God. "But because it also looks like the number one, it is relevant to both markets." Elenany admits that when she was growing up, Islamic faith did not play a large part in her life. She is British, with a Palestinian mother and Egyptian father, and the family went to the mosque only for important occasions. Things changed when she was a teenager. "Life happens and you start thinking. First my brother started practising, then my parents followed and so did I. And I did Hajj when I was 19."

The family home is in Mitcham, Surrey, just south of London, which is where Elenany has her "design studio" in the garage. Although she is as British as they come, selling the idea of an Islamic brand in the UK has proved difficult. "I have a lot of negative feedback from buyers on the Islamic brand. They look at the designs and I start explaining the story and their faces just drop. In fact, one major High Street chain said it might offend people.

"But I have been told the products are great. So for my next collection I am thinking of keeping everything exactly the same - just not saying anything about Islam. So I am not alienating anyone. "Now, I have had feedback - like 'make it a bit more feminine'. So my next collection is still streetwear, but it is more feminine." It will be bigger, with 15 pieces for women and two for men. "I am naming future collections according to the theme of the graphics. The next one is called The Friday Collection. It includes a graphic called Brotherhood, which looks like lots of people praying next to each other. And there's one called Salaam, which is what people do at Friday prayers. And there's one with a minaret repeat pattern."

Although she has had orders from the US, Canada and France as well as the UK, Elenany accepts her clothes are not suitable for all markets - and may not appeal to women in the Gulf, where the full-length abaya is popular. "My brand is very British. I think they have a different style to Britain and the style might not be right for them. "I am just trying to provide a choice for people. If people want to wear traditional abaya, then that's cool. I have seen some of the girls wear it and they look stunning in their abaya. But if they want things that are a bit younger, then my clothes will cover them up so they feel comfortable and be something that's not traditional."

Even though, for her new collection, Elenany is listening to feedback, there's one thing she definitely isn't changing: her pride in being young and Muslim. "One design looks a bit like Glastonbury, but it also looks a bit like Muslims at a demo," she says. "And I know a demo is a bit controversial but I wanted to capture the spirit of Muslim youth. "I didn't want to apologise, because I think Muslims in Britain today feel they have to keep apologising because other Muslims do bad stuff. But I wanted it to be a celebration. To say, yes, we're angsty - but really it's all right."

* The National

High profile Al Shabab attacks
  • 2010: A restaurant attack in Kampala Uganda kills 74 people watching a Fifa World Cup final football match.
  • 2013: The Westgate shopping mall attack, 62 civilians, five Kenyan soldiers and four gunmen are killed.
  • 2014: A series of bombings and shootings across Kenya sees scores of civilians killed.
  • 2015: Four gunmen attack Garissa University College in northeastern Kenya and take over 700 students hostage, killing those who identified as Christian; 148 die and 79 more are injured.
  • 2016: An attack on a Kenyan military base in El Adde Somalia kills 180 soldiers.
  • 2017: A suicide truck bombing outside the Safari Hotel in Mogadishu kills 587 people and destroys several city blocks, making it the deadliest attack by the group and the worst in Somalia’s history.
ENGLAND SQUAD

For first two Test in India Joe Root (captain), Jofra Archer, Moeen Ali, James Anderson , Dom Bess, Stuart Broad , Rory Burns, Jos Buttler, Zak Crawley, Ben Foakes, Dan Lawrence, Jack Leach, Dom Sibley, Ben Stokes, Olly Stone, Chris Woakes. Reserves James Bracey, Mason Crane, Saqib Mahmood, Matthew Parkinson, Ollie Robinson, Amar Virdi.

Our family matters legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

A State of Passion

Directors: Carol Mansour and Muna Khalidi

Stars: Dr Ghassan Abu-Sittah

Rating: 4/5

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE. 

Read part four: an affection for classic cars lives on

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

 

Rajasthan Royals 153-5 (17.5 ov)
Delhi Daredevils 60-4 (6 ov)

Rajasthan won by 10 runs (D/L method)

It

Director: Andres Muschietti

Starring: Bill Skarsgard, Jaeden Lieberher, Sophia Lillis, Chosen Jacobs, Jeremy Ray Taylor

Three stars

Retirement funds heavily invested in equities at a risky time

Pension funds in growing economies in Asia, Latin America and the Middle East have a sharply higher percentage of assets parked in stocks, just at a time when trade tensions threaten to derail markets.

Retirement money managers in 14 geographies now allocate 40 per cent of their assets to equities, an 8 percentage-point climb over the past five years, according to a Mercer survey released last week that canvassed government, corporate and mandatory pension funds with almost $5 trillion in assets under management. That compares with about 25 per cent for pension funds in Europe.

The escalating trade spat between the US and China has heightened fears that stocks are ripe for a downturn. With tensions mounting and outcomes driven more by politics than economics, the S&P 500 Index will be on course for a “full-scale bear market” without Federal Reserve interest-rate cuts, Citigroup’s global macro strategy team said earlier this week.

The increased allocation to equities by growth-market pension funds has come at the expense of fixed-income investments, which declined 11 percentage points over the five years, according to the survey.

Hong Kong funds have the highest exposure to equities at 66 per cent, although that’s been relatively stable over the period. Japan’s equity allocation jumped 13 percentage points while South Korea’s increased 8 percentage points.

The money managers are also directing a higher portion of their funds to assets outside of their home countries. On average, foreign stocks now account for 49 per cent of respondents’ equity investments, 4 percentage points higher than five years ago, while foreign fixed-income exposure climbed 7 percentage points to 23 per cent. Funds in Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Taiwan are among those seeking greater diversification in stocks and fixed income.

• Bloomberg

The specs

Engine: Direct injection 4-cylinder 1.4-litre
Power: 150hp
Torque: 250Nm
Price: From Dh139,000
On sale: Now

Founders: Ines Mena, Claudia Ribas, Simona Agolini, Nourhan Hassan and Therese Hundt

Date started: January 2017, app launched November 2017

Based: Dubai, UAE

Sector: Private/Retail/Leisure

Number of Employees: 18 employees, including full-time and flexible workers

Funding stage and size: Seed round completed Q4 2019 - $1m raised

Funders: Oman Technology Fund, 500 Startups, Vision Ventures, Seedstars, Mindshift Capital, Delta Partners Ventures, with support from the OQAL Angel Investor Network and UAE Business Angels

MATCH INFO

Manchester United v Manchester City, Wednesday, 11pm (UAE)

Match is on BeIN Sports

THE SPECS

Engine: 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo

Transmission: eight-speed automatic

Power: 258hp at 5,000-6,500rpm

Torque: 400Nm from 1,550-4,400rpm

Fuel economy, combined: 6.4L/100km

Price, base: from D215,000 (Dh230,000 as tested)

On sale: now

if you go

The flights

Etihad, Emirates and Singapore Airlines fly direct from the UAE to Singapore from Dh2,265 return including taxes. The flight takes about 7 hours.

The hotel

Rooms at the M Social Singapore cost from SG $179 (Dh488) per night including taxes.

The tour

Makan Makan Walking group tours costs from SG $90 (Dh245) per person for about three hours. Tailor-made tours can be arranged. For details go to www.woknstroll.com.sg