Taktsang Goemba, or tiger's nest monastery, a prominent Himalayan Buddhist site in the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. The temple complex was first built in 1692. Getty Images
Taktsang Goemba, or tiger's nest monastery, a prominent Himalayan Buddhist site in the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. The temple complex was first built in 1692. Getty Images
Taktsang Goemba, or tiger's nest monastery, a prominent Himalayan Buddhist site in the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. The temple complex was first built in 1692. Getty Images
Taktsang Goemba, or tiger's nest monastery, a prominent Himalayan Buddhist site in the upper Paro valley in Bhutan. The temple complex was first built in 1692. Getty Images

The cleansing and purifying tradition of incense in Bhutan


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An intriguing check-in ceremony greets me at the Bhutan Spirit Sanctuary, a stunning Himalayan resort nestled in Neyphu Valley, Paro, that helps guests find a balance between body, mind and spirit.

After entering the property’s dramatic golden gates, I’m invited to a small shrine for a puja ceremony. I light a butter lamp, and am then handed an incense stick (called a poe in Bhutanese) to burn and “invite good energy for my stay”. As the incense’s fragrance and smoke suffuse the air, I find the ritual undeniably relaxing, especially after a long, bumpy ride through the mountains.

In my suite I discover more scented wands, which work as room fresheners, relaxants and pest control in the Himalayan kingdom. And effectively too, I light one incense stick each night and find it acts like a balm, easing me into restful slumber.

Incense burns in Simtokha Dzong monastery in Bhutan. AFP
Incense burns in Simtokha Dzong monastery in Bhutan. AFP

Intrigued, I ask the resident therapist about the effect of incense, and she explains that it's an effective sleep aid which “helps the brain to increase the production of serotonin, the feel-good hormone that promotes healing and happiness”.

“We also use it in aromatherapy to calm the mind and unlock the energy channels to release internal bliss,” she says.

Little did I know that incense would become a leitmotif throughout my five-day stay in the small landlocked country in the eastern Himalayas.

A monk holding incense sticks at the Great Buddha Dordenma statue in Thimphu, Bhutan. Alamy
A monk holding incense sticks at the Great Buddha Dordenma statue in Thimphu, Bhutan. Alamy

Highly sought after in homes, shrines and monasteries, these aromatic sticks and powders are used for everything from meditation to devotion, healing, purification and relaxation. Their use as a fumigant is also evident from plumes of smoke rising from huts in the countryside every evening when locals burn them to ward off pests.

At every shrine, monastery or dzong (fortress) I visited in three cities – Thimphu, Paro and Punakha – monks burning incense in specially designed censers and incense stick holders were a ubiquitous sight. Some, with their shaved heads buried deep in their prayer books, had a smoking wand by their side.

“The Buddhist ritual of offering fragrance (gandhapuja) and the ancient Bon smoke offering (sang), has a deep cultural and religious significance for us,” an elderly monk at Punakha Dzong says.

“Incense smoke is invested with blessings of powerful mantras. It is used for cleansing and purification which helps in warding off evil spirits and bringing good luck.“

The unassuming entrance to Nado Poizokhang, an incense workshop in Thimphu, the capital city of Bhutan. Photo: Neeta Lal
The unassuming entrance to Nado Poizokhang, an incense workshop in Thimphu, the capital city of Bhutan. Photo: Neeta Lal

Intrigued by the fascinating subculture of incense, I booked a tour at Bhutan’s most famous incense-making workshop, Nado Poizokhang.

Set in the heart of Thimphu, it is the oldest and largest of its kind and produces incense sticks and powders that are used in homes and monasteries and also exported to many countries. Even Bhutan’s King Jigme Khesar Namgyel Wangchuck requests incense from the family-run enterprise to burn in the royal palace, I’m informed.

For all its fame, however, the workshop’s facade is nondescript and easy to miss, with only a tiny board announcing its presence. Inside, however, it is a hive of activity, with men and women of various ages working on different stages of incense production at their work stations. Some are smiling and chatting with their colleagues, somewhat leavening the serious atmosphere.

A worker at Nado Poizokhang incense workshop crafting the handmake incense sticks. Photo: Neeta Lal
A worker at Nado Poizokhang incense workshop crafting the handmake incense sticks. Photo: Neeta Lal

Observing my interest, a supervisor offers to take me around for a tour to explain the production process. He says that although simple to look at, incense making requires a lot of hard work and precision, not to mention a cornucopia of ingredients. These include medicinal herbs, dried spices, botanicals, tree barks, boughs of juniper, jatamansi flowers native to the Himalayas, sandalwood, clove, cardamom, saffron and nutmeg.

“The entire process is based on a secret recipe from the Mindrolling Tibetan Buddhist Monastery in India, which is more than 300 years old,” my guide explains as I pick up a wand to inhale its perfume. “Many of these ingredients are foraged and gathered by yak herders from high-altitude forests in the month after the Blessed Rainy Day holiday, Thruebab, which signals monsoon-end. This is when the foliage, nourished by the rain, is most fragrant.”

The production process begins by grinding all the ingredients into a fine powder, they are then mixed with water, sugar and honey. This mix goes into a big vat where it ferments for a week. At this stage, tshe (bark beetle) is added as an adhesive after which the contents are mixed vigorously before being put through the presser to make incense sticks.

The final stage involves the sticks being straightened, cut into various sizes, and dried in the shade for four to five days.

“Everything is done by hand and all the ingredients we use are organic and pure. The incense is hand rolled and sun dried, using traditional methods that go back generations. Each ingredient has unique properties and there’s a reason behind its inclusion in the recipe,” the supervisor adds.

Fragrant ingredients used to make Bhutanese incense includes ginger, medicinal herbs, dried spices, botanicals and tree barks. Photo: Neeta Lal
Fragrant ingredients used to make Bhutanese incense includes ginger, medicinal herbs, dried spices, botanicals and tree barks. Photo: Neeta Lal

For example, juniper, a fragrant tree that grows in Bhutan’s alpine forests, has a sweet and woody aroma and is believed to have medicinal properties. Similarly, agarwood, also known as oud, is a dark resinous wood that is highly prized for its herbal qualities. “The incense’s pure ingredients also help heighten awareness during meditation. They help take one closer to God,” they add, as the tour comes to an end.

With these words echoing in my mind, I pick up a few packets of Nado Poizokhang’s magical wands to take with me. Back home, every time I unroll my yoga mat to to meditate, I light up one scented stick for the session. They help me relax and focus on all things spiritual, transporting me to Bhutan’s beatific landscapes.

Results

6.30pm: Madjani Stakes Group 2 (PA) Dh97,500 (Dirt) 1,900m, Winner: RB Frynchh Dude, Pat Cosgrave (jockey), Helal Al Alawi (trainer)

7.05pm: Maiden (TB) Dh82,500 (D) 1,400m, Winner: Mnasek, Dane O’Neill, Doug Watson.

7.40pm: Maiden (TB) Dh82,500 (D) 1,600m, Winner: Grand Dubai, Sandro Paiva, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.

8.15pm: Handicap (TB) Dh87,500 (D) 2,200m, Winner: Meqdam, Sam Hitchcock, Doug Watson.

8.50pm: Dubai Creek Mile Listed (TB) Dh132,500 (D) 1,600m, Winner: Thegreatcollection, Pat Cosgrave, Doug Watson.

9.25pm: Conditions (TB) Dh120,000 (D) 1,900m, Winner: Sanad Libya, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.

10pm: Handicap (TB) Dh92,500 (D) 1,400m, Winner: Madkhal, Adrie de Vries, Fawzi Nass.

Electric scooters: some rules to remember
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1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

European arms

Known EU weapons transfers to Ukraine since the war began: Germany 1,000 anti-tank weapons and 500 Stinger surface-to-air missiles. Luxembourg 100 NLAW anti-tank weapons, jeeps and 15 military tents as well as air transport capacity. Belgium 2,000 machine guns, 3,800 tons of fuel. Netherlands 200 Stinger missiles. Poland 100 mortars, 8 drones, Javelin anti-tank weapons, Grot assault rifles, munitions. Slovakia 12,000 pieces of artillery ammunition, 10 million litres of fuel, 2.4 million litres of aviation fuel and 2 Bozena de-mining systems. Estonia Javelin anti-tank weapons.  Latvia Stinger surface to air missiles. Czech Republic machine guns, assault rifles, other light weapons and ammunition worth $8.57 million.

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Classification of skills

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A skilled worker would be someone at a professional level (levels 1 – 5) which includes managers, professionals, technicians and associate professionals, clerical support workers, and service and sales workers.

The worker must also have an attested educational certificate higher than secondary or an equivalent certification, and earn a monthly salary of at least Dh4,000. 

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Esperance de Tunis 1 Guadalajara 1 
(Esperance won 6-5 on penalties)
Esperance: Belaili 38’
Guadalajara: Sandoval 5’

FINAL LEADERBOARD

1. Jordan Spieth (USA) 65 69 65 69 - 12-under-par
2. Matt Kuchar (USA) 65 71 66 69 - 9-under
3. Li Haotong (CHN) 69 73 69 63 - 6-under
T4. Rory McIlroy (NIR) 71 68 69 67 - 5-under
T4. Rafael Cabrera-Bello (ESP) 67 73 67 68 - 5-under
T6. Marc Leishman (AUS) 69 76 66 65 - 4-under
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T6. Brooks Koepka (USA) 65 72 68 71 - 4-under
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AndhaDhun

Director: Sriram Raghavan

Producer: Matchbox Pictures, Viacom18

Cast: Ayushmann Khurrana, Tabu, Radhika Apte, Anil Dhawan

Rating: 3.5/5

Pharaoh's curse

British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.

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Date started: March 2013

Founder: Hussam Hammo

Based: Amman, Jordan

Employees: 55

Funding: $6m

Funders: Wamda Capital, Modern Electronics (part of Al Falaisah Group) and North Base Media

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"We believe we are reaching the point of harnessing the element that comprises 90 per cent of the universe, effectively and economically,” the bank said in a recent report.

Falling costs of renewable energy and electrolysers used in green hydrogen production is one of the main catalysts for the increasingly bullish sentiment over the element.

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Starring: Bria Vinaite, Brooklynn Prince, Willem Dafoe

Four stars

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Avatar: Fire and Ash

Director: James Cameron

Starring: Sam Worthington, Sigourney Weaver, Zoe Saldana

Rating: 4.5/5

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The President's Cake

Director: Hasan Hadi

Starring: Baneen Ahmad Nayyef, Waheed Thabet Khreibat, Sajad Mohamad Qasem 

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The specs

Engine: 8.0-litre, quad-turbo 16-cylinder

Transmission: 7-speed auto

0-100kmh 2.3 seconds

0-200kmh 5.5 seconds

0-300kmh 11.6 seconds

Power: 1500hp

Torque: 1600Nm

Price: Dh13,400,000

On sale: now

TO A LAND UNKNOWN

Director: Mahdi Fleifel

Starring: Mahmoud Bakri, Aram Sabbah, Mohammad Alsurafa

Rating: 4.5/5

Museum of the Future in numbers
  •  78 metres is the height of the museum
  •  30,000 square metres is its total area
  •  17,000 square metres is the length of the stainless steel facade
  •  14 kilometres is the length of LED lights used on the facade
  •  1,024 individual pieces make up the exterior 
  •  7 floors in all, with one for administrative offices
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  •  100 species of trees and plants dot the gardens
  •  Dh145 is the price of a ticket
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Dan Brown
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While you're here

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ICC men's cricketer of the year

2004 - Rahul Dravid (IND) ; 2005 - Jacques Kallis (SA) and Andrew Flintoff (ENG); 2006 - Ricky Ponting (AUS); 2007 - Ricky Ponting; 2008 - Shivnarine Chanderpaul (WI); 2009 - Mitchell Johnson (AUS); 2010 - Sachin Tendulkar (IND); 2011 - Jonathan Trott (ENG); 2012 - Kumar Sangakkara (SL); 2013 - Michael Clarke (AUS); 2014 - Mitchell Johnson; 2015 - Steve Smith (AUS); 2016 - Ravichandran Ashwin (IND); 2017 - Virat Kohli (IND); 2018 - Virat Kohli; 2019 - Ben Stokes (ENG); 2021 - Shaheen Afridi

Traits of Chinese zodiac animals

Tiger:independent, successful, volatile
Rat:witty, creative, charming
Ox:diligent, perseverent, conservative
Rabbit:gracious, considerate, sensitive
Dragon:prosperous, brave, rash
Snake:calm, thoughtful, stubborn
Horse:faithful, energetic, carefree
Sheep:easy-going, peacemaker, curious
Monkey:family-orientated, clever, playful
Rooster:honest, confident, pompous
Dog:loyal, kind, perfectionist
Boar:loving, tolerant, indulgent   

Updated: January 01, 2024, 4:33 AM