In the space meant to hold thousands, just a dozen people slowly circumambulate the sacred Kaaba in Makkah's Grand Mosque.
The walkways above are also empty. So are the streets outside.
On highways, police cars block lanes and along usually bustling boulevards the shops are all shuttered.
The holy cities of Makkah and Madinah are now under 24-hour curfew as the kingdom of Saudi Arabia seeks to stem the rising tide of the coronavirus.
The capital, Riyadh, is quarantined as is the Red Sea city of Jeddah. In the east, the nightly curfew has been brought forward to 3pm in Dammam and the governorates of Taif and Al Qatif.
The health ministry announced a further 154 cases on Friday, bringing the total to 2,039.
Globally, the number infected passed the 1 million mark overnight on Thursday and at least 55,000 have died. However, people are still recovering in large numbers with at least 218,000 confirmed cases no longer testing positive for the virus. In Saudi, at least 351 people who previously tested positive for the coronavirus are now better.
With the whole government clicking into gear to fight the spread, only 25 people have so far died of Covid-19, the disease caused by the coronavirus.
The first cases in early March came from travellers passing through and members of the Shiite minority travelling back from Iran unbeknownst to officials. From there the cases began to spread. First in eastern Qatif as three women contracted the virus from a pilgrim returning from Qom – the epicentre of Iran’s outbreak. A handful of new confirmed Covid-19 patients were declared daily. By mid-March at least 20 a day. On March 22, the number jumped – for the first time over 100 new cases were declared and the spread continued.
The country was quick to shut down the borders and restrict entry when the virus spread across the region, but it was already in the kingdom and going from person to person.
It’s not the first time the country has battled against a coronavirus: in 2012, an outbreak of Middle East Respiratory Syndrome (Mers) killed several hundred and spread across the region.
The experience battling the outbreak has given the government many of the tools useful in the fight against Covid-19.
Several hospitals already had separate triage units and others had drive-through test centres.
"Their experience with Mers uniquely positioned them because they learnt a lot from that," Joanna Gaines from the US Centres for Disease Control and Prevention told Reuters. "They know it's Mers season and they're already cued up for that. The preparation and processes really cuts down on your exposure right away."
In the kingdom, the government is now bringing all its experience to bear in the fight against the virus.
The Health Ministry’s Mawid medical app – usually used to book visits to the doctors – launched a self-assessment Covid-19 symptom checker. The ministry says 25,000 self-assessments have already been done.
In Riyadh, shoppers buying essentials can make their order through the window of their vehicles, limiting contact with others. There are also now allotted times when shops will only be open for vulnerable groups, such as the elderly or those with immunodeficiency, to limit their exposure further.
Government labs are mass-producing hand sanitiser to distribute free of charge.
The city streets are disinfected daily as part of a massive cleaning operation that has disinfected over 11,000 locations in the capital alone, the Saudi Press Agency reported.
With millions visiting the country every year for Umrah pilgrimage and Hajj, ministries are used to massive emergency planning.
Coronavirus around the world
This “unique experience”, the World Health Organisation has said, is helping in the fight.
King Salman is also directing the country’s vast oil wealth be used to soften the economic blow as the country grinds to a halt and shelters at home.
On Friday, he ordered the country's unemployment benefits agency to cover up to 60 per cent of salaries for private-sector employees in industries hit by the virus until June. Most government workers have already been sent home.
The finance ministry and central bank are already extending billions of riyals to small and medium enterprises as well as banks and financers to cushion the impact.
Meanwhile, the oil industry continues to pump at record rates. With lower demand at home for energy, the government has announced that it plans to export 10.6 million barrels a day by May. However, talks are underway with Russia – the world’s largest gas exporter – to cut supply as the world goes into lockdown and energy use plummets.
if you go
The flights
Emirates have direct flights from Dubai to Glasgow from Dh3,115. Alternatively, if you want to see a bit of Edinburgh first, then you can fly there direct with Etihad from Abu Dhabi.
The hotel
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Located in the heart of Mackintosh's Glasgow, the Dakota Deluxe is perhaps the most refined hotel anywhere in the city. Doubles from Dh850
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Events and tours
There are various Mackintosh specific events throughout 2018 – for more details and to see a map of his surviving designs see glasgowmackintosh.com
For walking tours focussing on the Glasgow Style, see the website of the Glasgow School of Art.
More information
For ideas on planning a trip to Scotland, visit www.visitscotland.com
WRESTLING HIGHLIGHTS
Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026
1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years
If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.
2. E-invoicing in the UAE
Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption.
3. More tax audits
Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks.
4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime
Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.
5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit
There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.
6. Further transfer pricing enforcement
Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes.
7. Limited time periods for audits
Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion.
8. Pillar 2 implementation
Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.
9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services
Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations.
10. Substance and CbC reporting focus
Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity.
Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer
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Essentials
The flights
Emirates and Etihad fly direct from the UAE to Geneva from Dh2,845 return, including taxes. The flight takes 6 hours.
The package
Clinique La Prairie offers a variety of programmes. A six-night Master Detox costs from 14,900 Swiss francs (Dh57,655), including all food, accommodation and a set schedule of medical consultations and spa treatments.
Some of Darwish's last words
"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008
His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.
6 UNDERGROUND
Director: Michael Bay
Stars: Ryan Reynolds, Adria Arjona, Dave Franco
2.5 / 5 stars